On a chilly December night in Manhattan, I step inside a renovated carriage house in the stylish but understated Gramercy Park neighborhood and find myself on the first floor of .
I¡¯m among the first wave of the evening ¡ª all by reservation ¡ª to enter this handsomely appointed space of wood and brick, opened just a few years ago in 2022 by Tokyo native Takuma Watanabe. A staff member ushers me to my seat at the counter, where I¡¯m offered an o-shibori (hot towel) to warm my hands. The tinkling piano and mournful sax of Duke Ellington¡¯s ¡°In a Sentimental Mood¡± along with the redolence of burning sticks of palo santo (Bursera graveolens) complete the ambience: at once timeless, polished and relaxed.
For an opening foray into the substantial drink menu, the signature Grand ²Ñ²¹°ù³Ù¾±²Ô²â¡¯²õ makes for a natural entry point. It¡¯s a concoction of Bombay Sapphire gin, La Cigarrera sherry, Churchill¡¯s port, Hine cognac, St-Germain elderflower liqueur and whole grapes served in a classic martini glass. Cold, sweet and smooth, the cocktail strikes a fine balance with its array of ingredients and pays homage to the bar¡¯s namesake ¡ª French American artist Philip Martiny, the former owner of this carriage house ¡ª as well as Watanabe¡¯s mixology training.
With your current subscription plan you can comment on stories. However, before writing your first comment, please create a display name in the Profile section of your subscriber account page.